French

I love the old French favourites, the sorts that evoke not the supercilious waiter and theatrically removed silvered dome of the big name restaurants, but rather the small town bistro, all warm wood and rough red. This is possibly the easiest route to a proper, filling and yet strangely delicate dinner. The pork is cooked for just enough time to take away pinkness but ensure tenderness within, and gloriously scorched without. The mustard, cider and cream add comfort and piquancy. To soak up the gorgeous juices, and to serve as a fantastically quicktime potato substitute, I serve up gnocchi alongside. You could always add a little lemony fennel, sliced thinly, or a green salad if you're in the mood.